Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the best whip for me, I'm a beginner and I never picked up a whip before?
This is probably one of the most ask questions of whip makers. My answer is, it depends.
It depends on the whip cracker and what they want to do with it. Fancy routines? Basic cracks? Use it for an exercise routine? Work livestock? See it can get complicated quickly.
I would say for someone who never picked up a whip, a well made medium size paracord whip would be a good economical place to start. Either a bullwhip or a Performance Hybrid (PH) would be a good type to begin with. Something like a 4 or 5 foot (~1 to 1.5 m) PH, or a 6 or 7 foot (~1.8 to 2.1 m) bullwhip, would be long enough to not need a lot of effort on the cracker's part, yet short enough to be easily handled by most people. They can be used in most yards. I wouldn't use them inside unless its in a large space, like on a stage, or in a ball court, or similar.
Whips handle differently depending on their size. Short whips, 4 feet (~1.2 m) long and shorter, are lighter in weight and don't have as much mass so they can move rather quickly, they require a little more finesse. Long whips, 8 feet (~2.4 m) or longer, are heavier which means they have more mass and that makes them slower to respond, especially as they get longer, which again takes more finesse. Long whips also need more room to swing when cracking, so I do not recommend using them inside nor in a small yard. These are some of the reasons I recommend medium size whips for newcomers to the sport. Once you get the feel of whip cracking, then experiment with different lengths.
- What sets your whips apart from others?
I take great pride in my work. I have put a lot of time into learning the craft of whip making by reading books by Ron Edwards, David Morgan, and others. I have also extensively studied lots of tutorial videos from Nick's Whip Shop, as well as Adam Winrich, Swordguy Builds, and Caliber Whips just to name a few. I have taken what I learned from all of this and expanded on it to develop my own approach to crafting the best whip that I can. I strive to make the best quality whip for the most economical price. I might take a little longer to make a whip than some others because I focus on quality over quantity with my builds. I feel that I should make the whip I am currently building better than the one I previously finished. This helps me push myself to always make the highest quality whip I am capable of.
- Why do you only sell nylon, aka paracord, whips in your store?
Nylon, aka paracord, whips don't have the complex setup, prep, tools, and material needs of leather whips. This makes them more economical for me to make and less expensive for people to purchase.
Kangaroo hide, on the other hand, is quite expensive and occasionally has import issues here in the U.S. Paracord does not have anything of the sort, it is readily available from numerous reputable U.S. based sources. It has standard dimensions, and only requires minimal prep as compared to leather. Also, I like the vast color options available with paracord. It gives me a lot of leeway to be creative.
- So then, what kind of paracord do you use?
I use 550 type III and 650 paracord most often, but I also use Whipmakers Cord, and sometimes 275 cord. I purchase a lot of my cord from Paracord.com. Other places I buy from are BoredParacord.com, Paracordgalaxy.com, Paracordplanet.com, and Theparacordstore.com. These are all reputable sources who sell quality products.
- I see other people selling Kangaroo leather whips. What is the difference between a nylon, aka paracord, whip and a kangaroo leather whip?
Nylon, aka paracord, whips make an easily affordable choice for anyone who is looking for a first whip. The are also great for those who enjoy whip cracking as a hobby and who might like to try different types of whips without the expense of purchasing multiple kangaroo leather whips.
Nylon whip makers have an abundance of relatively inexpensive material available (as compared to the cost of kangaroo hide, especially outside of Australia). Construction methods are similar between nylon and leather whips, but the materials are mostly standardized with nylon. Paracord strand width is dictated by the cord used, bolsters are either not used or in some cases just hockey tape wrap and artificial sinew -- or sometimes nylon thread depending on the whip maker. It is also generally easier to work with than leather. For tools, all one basically needs is some scissors, a knife, and a lighter (although reputable makers who build more than a couple whips in a year use more tools than just those).
Nylon whips generally take the weather better than kangaroo leather whips, especially if they are waxed. Nylon whips can come in a wide variety of colors which makes them the preferred choice of some performers. They are easy to store and care for. Being a synthetic material they need very little periodic maintenance, as opposed to leather whips that do need regular conditioning just like any other leather made items (boots, saddles, belts, etc...).
Leather whips from reputable makers cost a lot more than nylon whips. And the cheap whips found online are of such poor quality as to be very difficult to use. My experience with them is they are either so stiff as to not rollout well, or they are so loose that the strands barely hold together. Because of this, if someone is looking to begin whip cracking as a hobby, starting with a cheap leather whip could actually discourage them. And buying a quality leather whip from a reputable maker would be less economical. Quality leather whips are a bit more challenging to make because no two hides are the same and it takes time for the maker to learn to 'read' the hide and know where the quality leather can be taken from and where the lower quality leather should be avoided when cutting strands. This means the strands must be cut from a hide and essentially custom sized for each whip, and bolsters are custom made as the whip is built. Well known, highly reputable leather whipmakers actually taper their strands as the whip is built (which requires a good level of skill to do properly). Speciality tools are sometimes needed to trim and bevel the strands, among other things, and the whole process is generally just a lot more labor intensive than for a nylon whip.
Leather whips generally don't hold up well in extended periods of use in inclement weather. While they can be, and traditionally have been, used in the field, they will need extra care to clean and maintain afterward. If soaked with water, they must be dried carefully to prevent mold and mildew from forming inside the whip and then properly treated with leather dressing to restore the fibers that make up the leather. Dirt and sand are very abrasive to them, especially if it gets between the braiding (they are essentially skin, like on your body, and like your own skin, they will be damaged when they come in contact with abrasive surfaces).
- What are the different kinds of whips?
At the very basic level, I believe there are really only two kinds of common whips: 1) Fully Braided - those that are braided from Heel to Fall, including the handle and Thong, and 2) Separated - those that have a handle with a separate Thong.
The first kind of whip that I call Fully Braided, consists of three common types: Snake whips, Signal whips, and Bullwhips (there are others, but these are the most common).
- Snake whips are braided from the Heel to the Fall hitch, but do not have a solid handle. They have a Fall where the Cracker/Popper is attached. The entire whip is flexible.
Snake whips come in a large variety of lengths. The can be found as short as 18 inches (~45 cm) long to as much as 8 feet (~2.4 m) or longer.
- Signal whips are similar to Snake whips and are braided from the Heel to the end of the whip. They do not have a Fall, instead the Cracker/Popper is attached directly to the tip of the whips braiding. Again, the entire whip is flexible.
Signal whips that I have seen are generally on the shorter side. Most commonly less than 4 feet (~1.2 m) long, but they can be longer.
- Bullwhips are braided from the Heel to the Fall, but they have a solid handle that is typically from 8 to 12 inches (~20 to 30 cm) long (depending on the length of the whip). The handle can be made from any solid material, most commonly a steel rod or spike but sometimes wood, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. A bullwhip's Thong is braided off of the handle as part of the overall whip. Because of this, the Thong is generally not measured separately but rather included in the overall measurement. So a 6 foot (~1.8 m) long bullwhip will usually have an 8 inch (~20 cm) handle and a 5 foot 4 inch (~1.6 m) long Thong within its overall measurement. (See: "How is a whip measured?" below for more detailed explanation).
The second kind of whip that I call Separated, consist of a lot of different types of whips. Stock whips, Bollock whips, Cow whips, and Performance Hybrid whips are the most common, but there are more types out there.
- Stock whips have a separate handle and Thong connected using a Keeper arrangement. That is, there is a loop built into the end of the handle and another built into the end of the Thong and the Thong loop goes over the handle and then the tip inserted through the handle loop and pulled tight to make the Keeper connection. The handle is usually made of wood and is longer than that of a bullwhip, usually in the 12 to 16 inches (~30 to 40 cm) range. The thong is typically anywhere from 3 to 8 feet (~1 to 2.5 m) long. This type of whip was developed in Australia and is a proven solid design.
- Bollock whips are essentially Stock whips with longer handles and Thongs. They were traditionally used to drive a team of ox. Their handle is usually around five to six feet long (~1.5 m), but can be upwards of 10 feet (~3 m) long. And their Thong can be 8 feet (~2.5 m) or longer. They are typically constructed in a similar fashion to the Stock whip with a Keeper arrangement for Thong attachment (although I have seen some constructed like a Cow whip or Performance Hybrid whip).
- Cow whips are a unique type of Stock whip developed by cattle farmers in Florida, USA. It typically has a wood handle with a Thong attached by inserting it into a hollowed out end and tying it on using long tail strands that are part of the Thong. The braiding of a Cow whip Thong usually ends in a tapered twist, where most other types of whips are braided all the way to the end and tied in a Fall Hitch to attach the Fall. The handle is usually around 14 inches (~35 cm) long and has a hollowed out end, or cup, where the Thong is inserted. The Thong commonly comes in lengths from 6 feet (~1.8 m) to 12 feet (~3.6 m) or sometimes longer. The Thong is constructed with two long strands, typically around 2 to 3 feet (~60 to 91 cm) long coming from the base end of the Thong. They are inserted into the cup and through a hole in the side of the cup then used to tie the Thong to the handle using a repetitive fancy knot, like a grapevine or some such. This method of attachment allows the Thong to rotate within the cup making it easier to crack since the natural curve of the Thong can be allowed to swing around and into the best orientation for a crack.
- Performance Hybrid (PH) whips were first developed and sold by MidWestWhips, but they have become copied/adapted by numerous whip makers today making them a Standard type (like bullwhip, Stock whip, etc...) that is very popular today.
As the name implies, this whip is a hybridization of various whip types, they essentially combine the best of several whip designs. They have a long flexible handle (like a Stock whip) typically made from CPVC, their Thong is attached like a Cow whip and they also often end in a tapered twist, they are most commonly made with nylon/paracord.
Handle length is usually between 12 and 14 inches (~30 to 35 cm) long and their Thongs are typically found anywhere from 3 to 6 feet (~1 to 1.8 m) long.
- What are the different parts of a whip called?
There are five basic parts to almost every whip (with some exceptions):
1) The Heel - The end of the whip most often gripped by the user. On most whips, it typically is made up of a Turkshead knot over a solid foundation. Basically this is the beginning of the whip.
2) The handle - A solid part to hold on to. Typically they can be anywhere from 6 inches (~15 cm) to 14 inches (~35 cm) long, or longer depending on the whip type.
3) The Thong - The flexible part, usually tapered from thick at the base to thin at the tip. Can be anywhere from 1 foot (~30 cm) to 12 feet (~3.6 m) or longer depending on the type of whip.
4) The Fall - An extension to the end of the Thong located between the Thong and the Cracker/Popper. Its primary purpose is to prevent damage to the end of the braiding on whips long enough to drag on the ground during use. Its length is proportional to the length of the whip. It is typically replaceable.
5) The Cracker/Popper - The very end of the whip furthest away form the Heel. This is the part that actually breaks the speed of sound. It is the lightest part of the whip. Typically it is made from a twisted string of some kind with a knot tied towards the tip and a tassel past that. It can be made from things like: kite string, bailing twine, or nylon string from the guts of paracord, to Dyneema or Kevlar thread.
The Cracker/Popper is supposed to be replaceable. Since it gets moving faster than ~760 miles per hour (~1236 km/h) it experiences a lot of stress and wears out regularly with use.
The most common exceptions (there are others, of course):
1) Signal whip - does not have a handle or a Fall. The Cracker/Popper is attached directly to the end of the braiding.
2) Snake whip - does not have a handle. On the short Micro/Mini-Pocket Snake whips I make, the Fall is actually integrated onto the end of the braiding by making the last two strands longer than typical and turned into the Fall (I do this on lighter whips to reduce the mass towards the tip which increases the aerodynamics which makes it easier to crack).
- How is a whip measured?
Fully braided whips are basically measured by its braided section. Whips with a separate handle and Thong have two measurements, one for the handle and one for the Thong. The Fall and Cracker/Popper is usually not included in the measurement of most whips.
Because this gets confusing, some whip makers will state the overall length that including all the dimensions of the parts in the whip descriptions in order to make it easier to figure out the actual length of the whip a customer is buying.
Examples:
6 foot (~1.8 m) bullwhip, 24 inch (~91 cm) Fall, 8 inch (~20 cm) Cracker/Popper = 8 foot 8 inch (~2.6 m) total length
6 foot (~1.5 m) Stock whip, 14 inch (~35 cm) handle, 24 inch (~91 cm) Fall, 8 inch (~20 cm) Cracker/Popper = 9 foot 10 inch (~3 m) total length
- So, how does a whip actually work? What makes the noise?
Good question. The answer is simple but complicated at the same time. There is a lot of discussion out there about this. I am not a physicist, but my understanding is that, at its most basic level, the whip user starts the whip into motion when it is swung. That motion transfers energy from the Heel to the Cracker/Popper as it progresses down the length of the whip (most often in a rolling motion). As the taper of the whip diminishes, the tip speeds up. Somewhere near the end of the movement, the knot at the tip of the Cracker/Popper moves faster the the speed of sound, which causes a small sonic boom.
There is a really good video on YouTube that covers this pretty well by SmarterEveryDay. Here's a link:
https://youtu.be/AnaASTBn_K4?si=SCNHpqKX5t8cB9SG
- How do I take care of my nylon, aka paracord, whip?
Respect the whip! Do your best to learn and practice good technique and use finesse. Overly hard cracking, or muscleing the whip to make it crack, can cause damage to the whip. Do your best to only practice on grass if at all possible. Hard abrasive surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or gravelly/rocky terrain, will cause the end of the whip to take a lot of damage. Think of it like sandpaper, it will abrade the fibers of the paracord and cause it to wear out prematurely.
Also try not to use it in the rain for long periods of time or completely soak it in water. Even though nylon is water resistant and won't soak up water like other materials, water can get between the braiding and if not dried properly can become moldy. All my whips are waxed (unless special ordered and requested not to be waxed) which gives them some extra protection from water intrusion between the fibers. But this does not guarantee that water cannot get into the core of the whip. IF you do get the whip excessively wet, use a towel to dry it off as much as possible. then hang it in a low humidity environment and allow it to air dry (like in a basement or a garage) for a couple of days. DO NOT hang it over a heater, DO NOT put it in a hot shed, DO NOT place it near a heat source (space heater, radiator, hot air vent, etc...). Also, DO NOT leave your paracord whip in your car for long periods, especially in the Summer or on any hot day. Doing any of these things will likely cause the wax to overheat and start oozing out of the interior of the whip. This will negatively affect the whips performance.
Paracord whips are generally easy to maintain if used with care in a proper environment. If for any reason it starts to look dirty, put a tiny amount of dish soap in a cup of water, then gently use a soft cloth/sponge to wipe it down. Then pat it dry with a clean towel. There is no need to soak it, but if it has gotten dirt between the braiding an old toothbrush and some soapy water can usually clean it out.
Store your whip in a cool, dry place away from any heat source. If you take good care of it then it will last you a long time.
This is probably one of the most ask questions of whip makers. My answer is, it depends.
It depends on the whip cracker and what they want to do with it. Fancy routines? Basic cracks? Use it for an exercise routine? Work livestock? See it can get complicated quickly.
I would say for someone who never picked up a whip, a well made medium size paracord whip would be a good economical place to start. Either a bullwhip or a Performance Hybrid (PH) would be a good type to begin with. Something like a 4 or 5 foot (~1 to 1.5 m) PH, or a 6 or 7 foot (~1.8 to 2.1 m) bullwhip, would be long enough to not need a lot of effort on the cracker's part, yet short enough to be easily handled by most people. They can be used in most yards. I wouldn't use them inside unless its in a large space, like on a stage, or in a ball court, or similar.
Whips handle differently depending on their size. Short whips, 4 feet (~1.2 m) long and shorter, are lighter in weight and don't have as much mass so they can move rather quickly, they require a little more finesse. Long whips, 8 feet (~2.4 m) or longer, are heavier which means they have more mass and that makes them slower to respond, especially as they get longer, which again takes more finesse. Long whips also need more room to swing when cracking, so I do not recommend using them inside nor in a small yard. These are some of the reasons I recommend medium size whips for newcomers to the sport. Once you get the feel of whip cracking, then experiment with different lengths.
- What sets your whips apart from others?
I take great pride in my work. I have put a lot of time into learning the craft of whip making by reading books by Ron Edwards, David Morgan, and others. I have also extensively studied lots of tutorial videos from Nick's Whip Shop, as well as Adam Winrich, Swordguy Builds, and Caliber Whips just to name a few. I have taken what I learned from all of this and expanded on it to develop my own approach to crafting the best whip that I can. I strive to make the best quality whip for the most economical price. I might take a little longer to make a whip than some others because I focus on quality over quantity with my builds. I feel that I should make the whip I am currently building better than the one I previously finished. This helps me push myself to always make the highest quality whip I am capable of.
- Why do you only sell nylon, aka paracord, whips in your store?
Nylon, aka paracord, whips don't have the complex setup, prep, tools, and material needs of leather whips. This makes them more economical for me to make and less expensive for people to purchase.
Kangaroo hide, on the other hand, is quite expensive and occasionally has import issues here in the U.S. Paracord does not have anything of the sort, it is readily available from numerous reputable U.S. based sources. It has standard dimensions, and only requires minimal prep as compared to leather. Also, I like the vast color options available with paracord. It gives me a lot of leeway to be creative.
- So then, what kind of paracord do you use?
I use 550 type III and 650 paracord most often, but I also use Whipmakers Cord, and sometimes 275 cord. I purchase a lot of my cord from Paracord.com. Other places I buy from are BoredParacord.com, Paracordgalaxy.com, Paracordplanet.com, and Theparacordstore.com. These are all reputable sources who sell quality products.
- I see other people selling Kangaroo leather whips. What is the difference between a nylon, aka paracord, whip and a kangaroo leather whip?
Nylon, aka paracord, whips make an easily affordable choice for anyone who is looking for a first whip. The are also great for those who enjoy whip cracking as a hobby and who might like to try different types of whips without the expense of purchasing multiple kangaroo leather whips.
Nylon whip makers have an abundance of relatively inexpensive material available (as compared to the cost of kangaroo hide, especially outside of Australia). Construction methods are similar between nylon and leather whips, but the materials are mostly standardized with nylon. Paracord strand width is dictated by the cord used, bolsters are either not used or in some cases just hockey tape wrap and artificial sinew -- or sometimes nylon thread depending on the whip maker. It is also generally easier to work with than leather. For tools, all one basically needs is some scissors, a knife, and a lighter (although reputable makers who build more than a couple whips in a year use more tools than just those).
Nylon whips generally take the weather better than kangaroo leather whips, especially if they are waxed. Nylon whips can come in a wide variety of colors which makes them the preferred choice of some performers. They are easy to store and care for. Being a synthetic material they need very little periodic maintenance, as opposed to leather whips that do need regular conditioning just like any other leather made items (boots, saddles, belts, etc...).
Leather whips from reputable makers cost a lot more than nylon whips. And the cheap whips found online are of such poor quality as to be very difficult to use. My experience with them is they are either so stiff as to not rollout well, or they are so loose that the strands barely hold together. Because of this, if someone is looking to begin whip cracking as a hobby, starting with a cheap leather whip could actually discourage them. And buying a quality leather whip from a reputable maker would be less economical. Quality leather whips are a bit more challenging to make because no two hides are the same and it takes time for the maker to learn to 'read' the hide and know where the quality leather can be taken from and where the lower quality leather should be avoided when cutting strands. This means the strands must be cut from a hide and essentially custom sized for each whip, and bolsters are custom made as the whip is built. Well known, highly reputable leather whipmakers actually taper their strands as the whip is built (which requires a good level of skill to do properly). Speciality tools are sometimes needed to trim and bevel the strands, among other things, and the whole process is generally just a lot more labor intensive than for a nylon whip.
Leather whips generally don't hold up well in extended periods of use in inclement weather. While they can be, and traditionally have been, used in the field, they will need extra care to clean and maintain afterward. If soaked with water, they must be dried carefully to prevent mold and mildew from forming inside the whip and then properly treated with leather dressing to restore the fibers that make up the leather. Dirt and sand are very abrasive to them, especially if it gets between the braiding (they are essentially skin, like on your body, and like your own skin, they will be damaged when they come in contact with abrasive surfaces).
- What are the different kinds of whips?
At the very basic level, I believe there are really only two kinds of common whips: 1) Fully Braided - those that are braided from Heel to Fall, including the handle and Thong, and 2) Separated - those that have a handle with a separate Thong.
The first kind of whip that I call Fully Braided, consists of three common types: Snake whips, Signal whips, and Bullwhips (there are others, but these are the most common).
- Snake whips are braided from the Heel to the Fall hitch, but do not have a solid handle. They have a Fall where the Cracker/Popper is attached. The entire whip is flexible.
Snake whips come in a large variety of lengths. The can be found as short as 18 inches (~45 cm) long to as much as 8 feet (~2.4 m) or longer.
- Signal whips are similar to Snake whips and are braided from the Heel to the end of the whip. They do not have a Fall, instead the Cracker/Popper is attached directly to the tip of the whips braiding. Again, the entire whip is flexible.
Signal whips that I have seen are generally on the shorter side. Most commonly less than 4 feet (~1.2 m) long, but they can be longer.
- Bullwhips are braided from the Heel to the Fall, but they have a solid handle that is typically from 8 to 12 inches (~20 to 30 cm) long (depending on the length of the whip). The handle can be made from any solid material, most commonly a steel rod or spike but sometimes wood, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. A bullwhip's Thong is braided off of the handle as part of the overall whip. Because of this, the Thong is generally not measured separately but rather included in the overall measurement. So a 6 foot (~1.8 m) long bullwhip will usually have an 8 inch (~20 cm) handle and a 5 foot 4 inch (~1.6 m) long Thong within its overall measurement. (See: "How is a whip measured?" below for more detailed explanation).
The second kind of whip that I call Separated, consist of a lot of different types of whips. Stock whips, Bollock whips, Cow whips, and Performance Hybrid whips are the most common, but there are more types out there.
- Stock whips have a separate handle and Thong connected using a Keeper arrangement. That is, there is a loop built into the end of the handle and another built into the end of the Thong and the Thong loop goes over the handle and then the tip inserted through the handle loop and pulled tight to make the Keeper connection. The handle is usually made of wood and is longer than that of a bullwhip, usually in the 12 to 16 inches (~30 to 40 cm) range. The thong is typically anywhere from 3 to 8 feet (~1 to 2.5 m) long. This type of whip was developed in Australia and is a proven solid design.
- Bollock whips are essentially Stock whips with longer handles and Thongs. They were traditionally used to drive a team of ox. Their handle is usually around five to six feet long (~1.5 m), but can be upwards of 10 feet (~3 m) long. And their Thong can be 8 feet (~2.5 m) or longer. They are typically constructed in a similar fashion to the Stock whip with a Keeper arrangement for Thong attachment (although I have seen some constructed like a Cow whip or Performance Hybrid whip).
- Cow whips are a unique type of Stock whip developed by cattle farmers in Florida, USA. It typically has a wood handle with a Thong attached by inserting it into a hollowed out end and tying it on using long tail strands that are part of the Thong. The braiding of a Cow whip Thong usually ends in a tapered twist, where most other types of whips are braided all the way to the end and tied in a Fall Hitch to attach the Fall. The handle is usually around 14 inches (~35 cm) long and has a hollowed out end, or cup, where the Thong is inserted. The Thong commonly comes in lengths from 6 feet (~1.8 m) to 12 feet (~3.6 m) or sometimes longer. The Thong is constructed with two long strands, typically around 2 to 3 feet (~60 to 91 cm) long coming from the base end of the Thong. They are inserted into the cup and through a hole in the side of the cup then used to tie the Thong to the handle using a repetitive fancy knot, like a grapevine or some such. This method of attachment allows the Thong to rotate within the cup making it easier to crack since the natural curve of the Thong can be allowed to swing around and into the best orientation for a crack.
- Performance Hybrid (PH) whips were first developed and sold by MidWestWhips, but they have become copied/adapted by numerous whip makers today making them a Standard type (like bullwhip, Stock whip, etc...) that is very popular today.
As the name implies, this whip is a hybridization of various whip types, they essentially combine the best of several whip designs. They have a long flexible handle (like a Stock whip) typically made from CPVC, their Thong is attached like a Cow whip and they also often end in a tapered twist, they are most commonly made with nylon/paracord.
Handle length is usually between 12 and 14 inches (~30 to 35 cm) long and their Thongs are typically found anywhere from 3 to 6 feet (~1 to 1.8 m) long.
- What are the different parts of a whip called?
There are five basic parts to almost every whip (with some exceptions):
1) The Heel - The end of the whip most often gripped by the user. On most whips, it typically is made up of a Turkshead knot over a solid foundation. Basically this is the beginning of the whip.
2) The handle - A solid part to hold on to. Typically they can be anywhere from 6 inches (~15 cm) to 14 inches (~35 cm) long, or longer depending on the whip type.
3) The Thong - The flexible part, usually tapered from thick at the base to thin at the tip. Can be anywhere from 1 foot (~30 cm) to 12 feet (~3.6 m) or longer depending on the type of whip.
4) The Fall - An extension to the end of the Thong located between the Thong and the Cracker/Popper. Its primary purpose is to prevent damage to the end of the braiding on whips long enough to drag on the ground during use. Its length is proportional to the length of the whip. It is typically replaceable.
5) The Cracker/Popper - The very end of the whip furthest away form the Heel. This is the part that actually breaks the speed of sound. It is the lightest part of the whip. Typically it is made from a twisted string of some kind with a knot tied towards the tip and a tassel past that. It can be made from things like: kite string, bailing twine, or nylon string from the guts of paracord, to Dyneema or Kevlar thread.
The Cracker/Popper is supposed to be replaceable. Since it gets moving faster than ~760 miles per hour (~1236 km/h) it experiences a lot of stress and wears out regularly with use.
The most common exceptions (there are others, of course):
1) Signal whip - does not have a handle or a Fall. The Cracker/Popper is attached directly to the end of the braiding.
2) Snake whip - does not have a handle. On the short Micro/Mini-Pocket Snake whips I make, the Fall is actually integrated onto the end of the braiding by making the last two strands longer than typical and turned into the Fall (I do this on lighter whips to reduce the mass towards the tip which increases the aerodynamics which makes it easier to crack).
- How is a whip measured?
Fully braided whips are basically measured by its braided section. Whips with a separate handle and Thong have two measurements, one for the handle and one for the Thong. The Fall and Cracker/Popper is usually not included in the measurement of most whips.
Because this gets confusing, some whip makers will state the overall length that including all the dimensions of the parts in the whip descriptions in order to make it easier to figure out the actual length of the whip a customer is buying.
Examples:
6 foot (~1.8 m) bullwhip, 24 inch (~91 cm) Fall, 8 inch (~20 cm) Cracker/Popper = 8 foot 8 inch (~2.6 m) total length
6 foot (~1.5 m) Stock whip, 14 inch (~35 cm) handle, 24 inch (~91 cm) Fall, 8 inch (~20 cm) Cracker/Popper = 9 foot 10 inch (~3 m) total length
- So, how does a whip actually work? What makes the noise?
Good question. The answer is simple but complicated at the same time. There is a lot of discussion out there about this. I am not a physicist, but my understanding is that, at its most basic level, the whip user starts the whip into motion when it is swung. That motion transfers energy from the Heel to the Cracker/Popper as it progresses down the length of the whip (most often in a rolling motion). As the taper of the whip diminishes, the tip speeds up. Somewhere near the end of the movement, the knot at the tip of the Cracker/Popper moves faster the the speed of sound, which causes a small sonic boom.
There is a really good video on YouTube that covers this pretty well by SmarterEveryDay. Here's a link:
https://youtu.be/AnaASTBn_K4?si=SCNHpqKX5t8cB9SG
- How do I take care of my nylon, aka paracord, whip?
Respect the whip! Do your best to learn and practice good technique and use finesse. Overly hard cracking, or muscleing the whip to make it crack, can cause damage to the whip. Do your best to only practice on grass if at all possible. Hard abrasive surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or gravelly/rocky terrain, will cause the end of the whip to take a lot of damage. Think of it like sandpaper, it will abrade the fibers of the paracord and cause it to wear out prematurely.
Also try not to use it in the rain for long periods of time or completely soak it in water. Even though nylon is water resistant and won't soak up water like other materials, water can get between the braiding and if not dried properly can become moldy. All my whips are waxed (unless special ordered and requested not to be waxed) which gives them some extra protection from water intrusion between the fibers. But this does not guarantee that water cannot get into the core of the whip. IF you do get the whip excessively wet, use a towel to dry it off as much as possible. then hang it in a low humidity environment and allow it to air dry (like in a basement or a garage) for a couple of days. DO NOT hang it over a heater, DO NOT put it in a hot shed, DO NOT place it near a heat source (space heater, radiator, hot air vent, etc...). Also, DO NOT leave your paracord whip in your car for long periods, especially in the Summer or on any hot day. Doing any of these things will likely cause the wax to overheat and start oozing out of the interior of the whip. This will negatively affect the whips performance.
Paracord whips are generally easy to maintain if used with care in a proper environment. If for any reason it starts to look dirty, put a tiny amount of dish soap in a cup of water, then gently use a soft cloth/sponge to wipe it down. Then pat it dry with a clean towel. There is no need to soak it, but if it has gotten dirt between the braiding an old toothbrush and some soapy water can usually clean it out.
Store your whip in a cool, dry place away from any heat source. If you take good care of it then it will last you a long time.
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© Alex's Whip Shop 2025
All images and works on this website are copyrighted. Alex has worked very hard to produce these works. If you are interested in using any of these images or works, please connect with Alex by contacting him through the "Contact the Whip Maker" page. Alex is always happy to answer any questions.
CAUTION/WARNING
These are REAL whips and they can hurt you, or someone nearby, if not used with caution. ALWAYS use proper eye protection when using a whip. Also, long sleeves and long pants are highly recommended. DO NOT let young children play with a whip without proper adult supervision. Whips in general are NOT recommended for indoor use, but Alex's smaller (3-foot and shorter) whips, like Micro/Mini-Pocket Snake whips and mini-bullwhips, could be used in a garage (or other small space/tight environment) as long as precautions are taken to prevent damage to nearby objects. When using any whip, make sure you have plenty of room around you, the whip could accidentally wrap or impact nearby objects and/or people which could cause harm or make them fall and/or otherwise get hurt or broken. A whip is a tool and is NEVER intended to strike anyone or anything (including livestock/animals or people). After purchasing a whip from Alex's Whip Shop, we are not accountable for any damage caused or injury incurred from the use of the whip.
PLEASE, be careful and safely enjoy your new whip!
All images and works on this website are copyrighted. Alex has worked very hard to produce these works. If you are interested in using any of these images or works, please connect with Alex by contacting him through the "Contact the Whip Maker" page. Alex is always happy to answer any questions.
CAUTION/WARNING
These are REAL whips and they can hurt you, or someone nearby, if not used with caution. ALWAYS use proper eye protection when using a whip. Also, long sleeves and long pants are highly recommended. DO NOT let young children play with a whip without proper adult supervision. Whips in general are NOT recommended for indoor use, but Alex's smaller (3-foot and shorter) whips, like Micro/Mini-Pocket Snake whips and mini-bullwhips, could be used in a garage (or other small space/tight environment) as long as precautions are taken to prevent damage to nearby objects. When using any whip, make sure you have plenty of room around you, the whip could accidentally wrap or impact nearby objects and/or people which could cause harm or make them fall and/or otherwise get hurt or broken. A whip is a tool and is NEVER intended to strike anyone or anything (including livestock/animals or people). After purchasing a whip from Alex's Whip Shop, we are not accountable for any damage caused or injury incurred from the use of the whip.
PLEASE, be careful and safely enjoy your new whip!
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